Elegant Traveller SS 18
Capsule collection for a women's plus-size clothing brand
Tein opinnäytetyöni englanniksi annascholz-nimiselle vaatemerkille, joten työ esitellään tällä sivulla englanniksi.
As my bachelor's thesis I designed a collection for women’s plus-size clothing brand called annascholz Ltd. The thesis was based on a design studio internship period that I carried out at the company during summer 2016 and knowledge gained during that time.
The thesis consisted of two parts: the first part was the research part and the second the practice-based design part. In the research part I gained more information of the target group by reading studies and articles about plus-size and its position in the clothing industry. In addition, I studied other thesis works made about the subject of plus-size and designing for an existing brand. I also made a small trend research using the international trend forecast site WGSN.com.
In the second part, I designed a capsule collection by loosely imitating the job description of the company’s head designer. This means the main focus was on the designs, leaving the cost calculations aside for further discussion. If the company were to like the designs, they would be able to take them to production.
The collection consisted of twelve items and six prints. I created a technical catalogue according to them.
The season for the collection was spring/summer 2018, more specifically the month of June. annascholz launches 10 mini collections per year almost monthly, so this collection was planned for the June launch in mind. I presented the collection for the company in late November, when the June 2018 collection had not been designed yet. The feedback that I received was positive and the collection was promised to be taken into consideration when the spring/summer 2018 collections would be designed.
The whole written report can be found in: urn.fi/URN:NBN:fi:amk-2016121119862
As my bachelor's thesis I designed a collection for women’s plus-size clothing brand called annascholz Ltd. The thesis was based on a design studio internship period that I carried out at the company during summer 2016 and knowledge gained during that time.
The thesis consisted of two parts: the first part was the research part and the second the practice-based design part. In the research part I gained more information of the target group by reading studies and articles about plus-size and its position in the clothing industry. In addition, I studied other thesis works made about the subject of plus-size and designing for an existing brand. I also made a small trend research using the international trend forecast site WGSN.com.
In the second part, I designed a capsule collection by loosely imitating the job description of the company’s head designer. This means the main focus was on the designs, leaving the cost calculations aside for further discussion. If the company were to like the designs, they would be able to take them to production.
The collection consisted of twelve items and six prints. I created a technical catalogue according to them.
The season for the collection was spring/summer 2018, more specifically the month of June. annascholz launches 10 mini collections per year almost monthly, so this collection was planned for the June launch in mind. I presented the collection for the company in late November, when the June 2018 collection had not been designed yet. The feedback that I received was positive and the collection was promised to be taken into consideration when the spring/summer 2018 collections would be designed.
The whole written report can be found in: urn.fi/URN:NBN:fi:amk-2016121119862
DESIGNING
I did an extensive trend research before I started designing anything. I started it already in London by watching what people were wearing and what the shops were selling. In Finland I was able to use a trend forecasting site. I looked through a great deal of pictures of recent fashion shows and street styles. I gathered the most inspiring outfits into a collage and made some notes about the details that caught my eye. Unfortunately, I cannot publish the collage here because of copyright reasons.
I came up with the travelling theme inspired by the exotic colors that I found from the trend forecast site. I thought that the collection could have some very summery pieces, suitable for holiday and free time but also some casual working styles. As a target person I was thinking of a smart working woman who travels the cities of the world, wearing bold prints and bright colors. The collection would be quite versatile, with styles that suit a younger woman and styles that someone closer to her 50’s or even 60’s might wear.
I came up with the travelling theme inspired by the exotic colors that I found from the trend forecast site. I thought that the collection could have some very summery pieces, suitable for holiday and free time but also some casual working styles. As a target person I was thinking of a smart working woman who travels the cities of the world, wearing bold prints and bright colors. The collection would be quite versatile, with styles that suit a younger woman and styles that someone closer to her 50’s or even 60’s might wear.
After discussing about my ideas with the company, I started drawing. First off I practiced my drawing a little. I looked at photos of real plus-size people and sketched them with crayons. I had decided that I will be making my sketches as realistic as possible, at least what comes to proportions of the body. After that I moved on to practicing drawing with a Wacom drawing tablet. I am used to drawing fashion illustrations with stick-like figures in a very quick manner. Now I used photographs from real plus-size people as references, because I wanted the sketches to be realistic. I thought it was important that one can see straight away how the clothes might look on a plus-size person, not only for the client, but for me as well.
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THE COLLECTION
The collection developed into its final form by interaction between me and the company. There were many stages with many sketches which you can see if you read the whole report. Here I'm only showing the final results.
DETAILS
This is a fabulous statement jacket. The graphic print was inspired by beautiful Mediterranean mosaic tiles. The princess cut allows a great fit and is perfect especially for a busty figure. When worn closed, the belt brings out the waist. The jacket also has pockets for practicality.
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The classic wrap dress is a hit with almost all ages and bodies. This one has a modern touch with the graphic mosaic print. The little collar is a fun detail. The crepe fabric comes down nicely while the fit is adjusted with the ties in the back. The dress is suitable for both work and free time.
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This daring dress is best for an hourglass-shaped figure. The arms and the legs can be seen through the mesh fabric. The jersey lining is very stretchy so it does not pull. The V-neckline is very feminine and flattering for a plus-sized body. The colors and the print are inspired by a tropical garden at summer night.
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This maxi skirt is great for anyone who is more comfortable having a little more coverage. Despite the simple design, it’s a very luxurious piece: the fabric is pure silk that moves elegantly with the person who wears it. The big flower print is feminine but not juvenile. The best thing is that this can worn this for years, because the wrap system allows the waist to be tied where comfortable.
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This jumpsuit is relaxed but still very stylish. The dynamic print elongates the body and makes the viewers eyes travel vertically. The material is soft and stretchy, so it is very comfortable to wear. This style would look good with almost every body type because of the gatherings at the waist and neckline. The final touch comes from the satin ribbon tied to the back of the neck, which also brings a bit of luxury to the look.
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This light kimono jacket is also good for any body type. Tied to the waist, it brings out the legs. The print is very fresh and unique and it is easy to combine with a short skirt or jeans.
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This piece became the highlight of the collection. The drawstring detail is modern and trendy addition the classic cocktail dress. The stretchy fabric and gathering accentuate curves. The Desert Sun orange brings to mind a beautiful Moroccan sunset.
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This is the most playful outfit of the collection. The asymmetrical top breaks the traditional shoulder lines, drawing the eye to the décolleté area. The interesting culottes are a combination of a skirt and trousers. The luxurious silk feels wonderful in the summer.
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This is a very simple but chic style. Ms. Scholz had said she liked the sheer details, so I designed the sheer panels to give a modern touch to this vintage-inspired dress. The soft neoprene fabric is very comfortable and maintains the shape of the dress nicely, accentuating the waist.
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The offshoulder top is a great way to show some skin while covering the arms. The whole look has a 1970’s feeling, with the flared sleeves and the fringed skirt. The pencil skirt is a great garment for accentuating the waist for all body types. The D-ring system allows some adjusting of the fit. Note the quality materials: pure silk and real leather.
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NOTE:
I also made a technical catalogue where all of the garments are drawn as flat drawings. It also includes all the information of materials and prints. The technical catalogue can be found in the written report.
I also made a technical catalogue where all of the garments are drawn as flat drawings. It also includes all the information of materials and prints. The technical catalogue can be found in the written report.
All of these pictures are my original artwork. Do NOT copy without permission!
